5983 S. Transit Road, Lockport, NY
"We're planning to return at some point in the future to revisit our initial impressions and see whether the pulled pork is anything memorable."
Barbecue? Love it. Ate a lot of it. Want to eat more. But we don't have a lot to say about One Eyed Jack's, a Lockport BBQ house that we visited some time after trying Kentucky Greg's out in Cheektowaga. For whatever reason, Western New York does not play in the big leagues when it comes to barbecue, and the local players tend to be only decent by absolute standards. Fat Bob's? We weren't impressed at all by what we tried. Kentucky Greg's? We're going to need to go back again, but while we liked the food, the place was greasier than the average greasy spoon.
One Eyed Jack's has a slight edge on Greg's in looks, but not on food. The restaurant, billed as a smokehouse grill, has a nice-sized dining room with capacity for roughly 80 people, and serves a short list of fairly typical barbecue fare - ribs, brisket, and pulled pork are supposed to be the specialties. Our order of ribs ($11.50 for 1/3 rack, $14.50 for 1/2 rack, $20 for full rack) seemed expensive for the quantity, and when ordered with sticky bourbon sauce offered nothing memorable in flavor or texture. The included garlic toast was nice, as were the french fries, but neither was anything to write home about.
On the other hand, we thought that the beef brisket sandwich ($8), served on a kaiser roll, was very good; an $11 portion is also offered without the bread. We're planning to return at some point in the future to revisit our initial impressions and see whether the pulled pork is anything memorable.